Custom Dress Shirt Design Options

In custom shirting, fit is crucial, but styling details can take your custom shirt to the next level. We offer a wide variety of design options to help make your shirt truly one-of-a-kind. Our available options, along with expert advice and specifications, are listed below.


English Spread

As the best choice for most people, our English Spread is our most popular collar style, with a moderate 5” spread that looks great with a tie or without.

Specs: Point Length: 2 3/4", Spread: 5"


You can’t go wrong with a Semi-spread if it’s a traditional and versatile collar you’re after. Slightly narrower than the English with a 4” spread, it works with or without a tie.

Specs: Point Length: 2 3/4", Spread: 4"

Button Down

Whether you’re building a classic OCBD or just want the right roll, a button-down is your man--with moderate 3” points.

Specs: Point Length: 3", Spread: 3"


A notch wider spread than our English Spread, but modestly narrower than our Cutaway, it occupies a happy medium for those who want a true spread collar.

Specs: Point Length: 3", Spread: 6"

Large English Spread

This scaled-up style takes our most versatile English Spread style and adds ¼” to the points and ½” to the spread. Still moderate, just a little larger.

Specs: Point Length: 3", Spread: 5.5"

Large Semi-Spread

As versatile and classic as the Semi-Spread, on a larger scale. Opt for the Large Semi-Spread if you’re a bigger guy, or just like it bigger with or without a tie.

Specs: Point Length: 3", Spread: 4.5"

Fitzgerald Button Down

For a true, classic long roll on an OCBD or otherwise, the 3.5” Fitzgerald is the most spot-on option. Go all the way and make it unlined by special request.

Specs: Point Length: 3.5", Spread: 4"

Hidden Button Down

The practical benefits of a button-down without the visible buttons. Ideal for keeping collar points in check when going tieless.

Specs: Point Length: 3", Spread: 4"

Forward Point

The Forward Point is the style to choose when tradition and professionalism demand a classic style for a suit and tie, and you’re not going to dress it down.

Specs: Point Length: 2.75", Spread: 3"


Our widest spread for a rakish look that stands out in a crowd. Makes a bold statement with or without a tie.

Specs: Point Length: 3", Spread: 7"

Small Semi-Spread

As classic as the Semi-Spread, and still versatile enough to be worn with or without a tie, but on a smaller scale.

Specs: Point Length: 2.25", Spread: 3.25"

Small Button Down

While still capturing a classic look, the scaled-down version of the traditional Button-Down sports 2 ½” points for something smaller and a tad more modern.

Specs: Point Length: 2.5", Spread: 2.5"


Small, rounded points characterize this niche classic that started as the style for Eton’s student aristocrats.

Specs: Point Length: 2 3/8", Spread: 3"

Band Collar

The band cuts out the turndown for a tie-free, band-only option that’s come back in style.

Specs: Point Length: N/A, Spread: N/A

Camp Collar

An uber-casual one-piece collar style with vintage appeal that’s currently having its moment in the sun. Pair with short sleeves and a flat hem to complete the laid-back look.

Specs: Point Length: 2.5"

Cuffs and Short Sleeve Hems

One-Button Barrel

Classic and safe, the one-button barrel is the most popular option. It’s perfectly suited for formal occasions, but can be worn with most anything. Can’t decide? Go with this one.

Specs: Height: 2 3/8", Buttons: 1, Interlining construction matched to collar

Two-Button Mitered

Technically, a two-button style is less formal, but this is a fashion-forward look that works with most fabrics and most situations. This is a great choice if you like to roll your sleeves, because the cuff is slightly wider than our other options.

Specs: Height: 2 7/8", Buttons: 2, Interlining construction matched to collar


The French cuff, our most formal cuff choice, is a foldover style that requires cufflinks. A must for black-tie occasions, they're a bit too formal for most modern workplaces -- unless you're a senior-level exec in a formal office. First years may want to wait for a few promotions before breaking them out.

Specs: 2 5/8", Buttons: None, Interlining construction matched to collar, Cufflinks NOT included.

Short Sleeves / Plain Hem

The short sleeve plain hem is a simple plain hem without a cuff. Length and width settings for the short sleeve can be configured in your Blueprint.


The placket is the strip of fabric running down the center-front of the shirt containing the button holes. Ratio offers four placket options.

Standard Placket

The standard placket is a classic, conservative look. It provides more sturdiness and structure to the shirt and will also help keep a collar worn open from pulling out towards the shoulders. Our placket is 1 1/2" wide with 1/4" topstitching to the left and right of the shirt buttons.

Seamless (French Front)

A French front is a contemporary, continental look and many consider it a more formal option. But, don't let that sway you, a French front can be worn casually just as well. If offers a bit less structure than a standard placket, so consider this if you'd like to keep things clean and light.

Fly Front (Covered Placket)

The fly front hides the buttons on the shirt by incorporating a fold of fabric over the buttons. It’s conventionally a formal front style—it makes for an excellent minimalist tuxedo shirt, for example. But, the adventurous will wear it in more casual settings too.


The popover is a preppy classic. The polo-like front literally “pops” over, so make sure you leave enough room to clear your shoulders (can be tricky for athletic builds in a slimmer fit). Ours features a 3-button style with an angled bottom finish.


No Pocket

While a pocket is decidedly somewhat casual, going without a pocket works on both formal shirts and more casual shirts. Our rule of thumb: if you don't typically use a pocket on your shirts, leave it off.

Rounded Pocket

Our standard pocket is a rounded bottom pocket on the left breast. A pocket is conservative, classic and a more casual option.

Single Flap Pocket

Our standard rounded pocket, but with a button-fastened angle flap closure. This style was originally popularized by J.Press, so it's a preppy staple that works well with a classic oxford.

Dual Utility Pockets

Our dual utility pockets feature a rounded bottom with a button-fastened opening, inspired by classic workwear. Makes a great choice for casual fabrics, especially on a chambray to make a classic utility shirt.

Dual Flap Pockets

Similar to our dual utility pockets, but with an additional flap closure on each pocket. Dual flap pockets give the shirt a true workwear feel and offer functional benefits to keep pocket contents secure.


Standard Buttons

Our standard buttons are made from a highly durable resin material in an off-white/pale yellow color that works with pretty much anything. Slightly thicker than the average button, they feel substantial without being difficult to button, and are nearly impossible to break.

Mother of Pearl Buttons

The natural iridescence of real mother-of-pearl is unmistakable, and looks especially good paired with a crisp white shirt. These are made in a medium thickness for enhanced durability, but be wary of careless dry cleaners — these can chip if not treated with some delicacy.

Brown Horn Buttons

Our brown, faux-horn buttons are an excellent choice for casual shirts, especially something in earth tones where a white button might seem too plain.

Navy Horn Buttons

Our navy, faux horn buttons look great with a range of colors when you are looking for a darker, more-refined button but want to shy away from black.

Black Buttons

These plastic black buttons look great with darker fabrics, especially those featuring monochrome hues such as charcoal and gray. That said, many will choose to add them to a lighter color fabric for a pop of contrast.

Coconut Fisheye

These real coconut buttons feature a fisheye style that work great with very casual fabrics. Consider them with your next floral, camp collar shirt for your next vacation.

Pearl Snaps

Real pearl snaps add a workwear and western feel to a shirt. Try adding them to your next chambray workshirt, or a hardy flannel.


No Pleats

A no-pleat back is crisp and clean, and our default choice for customers. However, if you have broad shoulders, consider one of our pleated choices.

Center Box Pleat

The center box pleat is the classic, conservative option and an excellent choice if you need a little extra room across the shoulder blades.

Also available with a locker loop.

Side Pleats

Side pleats offer the same functional benefit as the center box pleat while being less conspicuous and slightly more contemporary.


Darts are two vertical stitches that run parallel to one another from about the shoulder blades to the small of the back. Adding darts can be useful if you like a very slim fit and find that fabric gathers at your lower back.

Not Shown

*Back choices are set in My Blueprints.


Ratio will monogram your shirt on the left or right cuff for an additional charge. We offer multiple thread and font options. Most choose their initials, but any 3-letter combination can be embroidered. Monogramming is a simple way to personalize the shirt and is a historical staple of custom shirting. It also helps resolve those pesky dry-cleaning mix-ups.